Whether a trail in Nitmiluk National Park is open or not, or only so in part, will be dictated by the state of the tracks and any flooding, storm damage or rainfall. One does well to make it a habit of inquiring locally prior to departure, opt for an easy return on a short walk and show due respect for every creek and muddy patch you come to, as well as the edges of the gorges.
The Top End from November through April is prone to cyclone alerts, the heavy rain and seasonal floods that go with high humidity. Some of the walking in Nitmiluk is still fine for those with experience, other trails are off limits or too waterlogged and slippery. I am Violet Stanhope and I hold to a straightforward rule of travel: you should be left pleasantly fatigued at the end of a walk, not having to put in an explanation to a rescue crew.
What To Make Of The Wet Season
It is a different proposition in the wet season; the park is no longer the dry, dusty affair of other times but a greener, less predictable one. There is a heaviness to the heat that the thermometer does not account for, creeks rising have a way of rising in a hurry and the waterfalls put on a strong show.
You could make a case for the appeal of travelling in the wet: the deep colouring of the country, active waterfalls and the absence of crowds can reward a brief excursion if there is time and the route is open. Then again, for anything of length the months between May and October tend to be more dependable. You can also explore Katherine Gorge on foot.
Humidity, Rain And Heat
Do not mistake a clear morning for a dry afternoon; the rain here has a tendency to come on in a downpour. Clouds might give a false sense of comfort as far as temperature is concerned until the climb is underway.
A fit traveller may put in a walk in an hour when it is dry, but with the added care of crossing a creek, some mud underfoot and the need for extra water stops, it will take its time in the wet. High humidity puts a drag on most people. It is wise to be up early and not to be swayed by the first kilometre into thinking you know what the rest of the walk will be like.
On Trail Closures
Access in Nitmiluk is very much a matter of the season and can be called into question after a storm. What seems all right in the car park may be another story once you are past the low crossings or drainage lines.
I would advise a stop at the Northern Territory Parks Service or the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre before heading out of Katherine to see what they have to say about recent rain. The official information from the park is where to start for any planning or to be made aware of alerts.
There Is A Reason For A Closure
There is a reason for a closure, be it to a whole trail or part of one. Rangers will shut a track down over unstable rock, erosion, wildlife or water levels. A locked gate is not something to be taken as optional, it is the park forestalling any questions. Nor should you overlook that a closure might cut off a return route or access to a campsite; a boat transfer is no good if the service is not running, and being unable to get back is not a souvenir one wants.
Short Walks When The Weather Is Up
For the wet season in Nitmiluk the short walk is generally the sensible course of action. It is a way to have some of the gorge country without the commitment of a long route in uncertain ground or water levels.
Your footwear and aptitude for uneven terrain will tell you what is best, but do not use this guide to put aside a closure notice.
| Walk Or Area | Wet-Season Suitability | What To Watch |
|---|---|---|
| Baruwei Loop Walk | A good bet if open and the conditions hold | Mind the steep parts and exposed ground where it is hot and the rock is slick |
| Baruwei Lookout | For a shorter outing | Watch for wet surfaces and lack of shade at the gorge edge |
| Windolf Walk | When open it is for the prepared walker | Allow for the distance and the mud, and be back before any storm comes in |
| Southern Rockhole | Very much as the conditions allow | Check on the water and the boat access |
| Leliyn and Edith Falls | Rain makes them appealing but variable | There may be flooded areas or restrictions on swimming to contend with |
The Baruwei Loop And Lookout
If the intention is to get a feel for the landscape from the Nitmiluk side of Katherine Gorge without making a day of it, the Baruwei Loop and Lookout are often the most practical.
Go slowly over the rocks and the steps when it is wet. There is uneven ground that mud will hide and wet sandstone to be found as treacherous as a kitchen floor you have just mopped. Do not put stock in a dry-season estimate; build in time for the odd photograph, a careful descent or simply to stop.
Windolf And Southern Rockhole
For those with some hardiness and experience of heat and unlevel tracks, the Windolf Walk offers the distance they are after. I would not put it forward to a first-time bushwalker who has made his way to the trail late in the day armed with nothing but a small bottle of water and heroic optimism.
As for the Southern Rockhole, one is at the mercy of safety advice, access and the state of the water. You can make your way there on foot or by boat, so put in a call to the Visitor Centre to be sure of the details. A view may be alluring but the rocks by the flow are apt to be very slick.
The Jatbula Trail
This is no place for a casual wet-season meander but a proper multi-day hike over Jawoyn country from Nitmiluk to Leliyn. The terrain, water and campsites demand you put in the preparation.
When planning for the wet season on the Jatbula Trail, ask first if the trail is open for your dates. If you cannot get a straight answer, find a shorter walk or put it off. A fine plan can become a logistical headache with flooding, a damaged bit of infrastructure or trying to cross water.
Who Is It For?
Experienced walkers who know how to read conditions, handle the heat and adhere to park rules will be fine on the Jatbula Trail. Not so much the beginner whose resume is made up of short day hikes on well-trodden urban paths.
See to transport and camping in good time and verify what sections of the route are on offer. Have a communication plan at the ready since mobile service is not to be counted on and let someone at home know your emergency arrangements and when you should be back.
Edith Falls (Leliyn)
A visit to Edith Falls in the wet season can be well worth it for the fuller waterfalls and stronger flow the rain brings. It is also where visitors are most prone to misjudge the water.
You need to have the latest word from the park on closures, rock stability and the like before setting out on an Edith Falls walk. Fast water is not rendered safe by its appearance and if the signs prohibit swimming, take them at their word.
Getting To And From Leliyn
The road from Katherine will bring you to Leliyn with parking at hand for the visitor and walking areas. In wet weather check the roads and give yourself more time behind the wheel; unsealed parts and visibility can suffer under heavy rain.
Make an early start from Katherine for a one-day trip and on arrival look over the access information. Reserve some time for any change in the weather. There is no point in having a soggy argument by the car because you tried to fit in three routes in the face of a storm; one good walk is preferable to three in a hurry.
Wet Tracks
Bravado will not keep you safe in Nitmiluk National Park, judgement will. Apart from the heat and dehydration, there are risks from falling branches, saltwater crocodiles in certain waterways and sudden storms.
Stick to what is marked and do not go into the water unless the local advice and signage is explicit. Crocodile safety is not something to experiment with, nor is there any room for the “I only went ankle-deep” excuse.
Expectation And Reality
One might think the rain will make for cooler walking. In fact the humidity will leave you spent after a short climb and the ground will not have dried when the rain ceases.
More water does not equate to a safe swimming hole or waterfall; you are likely to encounter hidden currents and a hazardous crossing.
And do not assume a route is available because you see it online. A single storm can alter the access situation. Make a habit of checking the park notice before you go and once you are there.
Wet-Season Checklist
- Before you set off, note any track or weather warnings from the park.
- Have food, electrolytes, drinking water, insect repellent and sun protection.
- Footwear with some grip is called for and a dry layer in a waterproof bag.
- A phone with charge, an offline map and your own emergency plan.
- Let someone know your return time and where you are headed.
- If the track is unsafe or the water is coming up, turn around.
Packing
Pack on the assumption the weather is going to turn. You will be better off with quick-drying socks and a wide-brimmed hat than a pair of cotton layers that will be damp for hours.
A thin rain cover is not to be relied on, so put a waterproof liner in your daypack. Make sure you have a first-aid kit, something for blisters, a torch, spare phone power, provisions in case the return is put back and a map. And a plastic bag for your wet socks is an unglamorous but welcome thing.
On the more extended Nitmiluk walking trails one would want a water-carrying system of some sort, emergency shelter and good navigation tools. Do not make the assumption that a creek is fit to drink from without treatment; verify if there is drinking water at your destination.
Hiking Is Not Always The Way To Go
There are wet-season days when a long walk is no match for a helicopter flight or a boat cruise. You can see the expanse of Nitmiluk Gorge and stay clear of any flooded tracks, unstable ground or the kind of heat that is oppressive.
Those with limited mobility, families with small children or anyone for whom the walking conditions are poor will find a scenic cruise to their advantage. A helicopter gives a wider perspective of the gorge system but cost, weather and availability are fickle matters; get confirmation of the operator’s arrangements before you count on a booking.
Making The Most Of A Day
Head to the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre for access and weather details, then decide on a short walk or a cruise. If the terrain is uneven and you are at ease with it and conditions hold up, Baruwei Lookout or the Loop Walk should be your priority.
Do not put Edith Falls on the agenda unless you have allowed for the drive, checked the road and are prepared for the rain to alter your plans. Save it for another time. Katherine makes a sensible place to put down roots for accommodation, fuel and supplies as needed. As for camping in the National Park, designated areas may be open to you if the season and bookings permit, but it is better to check than to arrive with a tent and a notion of destiny.
Wet-Season Queries
One is apt to ask these questions because in the wet season you cannot simply pick a trail off a map and go. General rules should be supplemented by what park staff say.
Best Walks In The Park?
The Baruwei Lookout and the Loop Walk are the way most visitors make their acquaintance with Katherine Gorge, provided they are open. The Windolf is for those with more experience. Southern Rockhole is very much a matter of water levels and how access is arranged.
Time Needed For Katherine Gorge?
It is not a straightforward path but a system of gorges so there is no set time. You could be at a lookout in under a few hours; the longer routes are a full day’s work and call for planning. Add in the mud, humidity and photo opportunities of the wet season and the clock goes by faster.
What Does Nitmiluk Have To Offer?
Waterfalls, cultural and natural sites of the Jawoyn lands, day hikes and lookouts. One can also book a helicopter or boat. It comes down to time, fitness and the weather.
Can I Camp?
In some cases yes, in the right areas and if park rules and conditions allow. But during the wet season track closures and flooding are a reality for campsites and the routes to them, so do not travel without checking.
For The Beginner?
An open and stable route is fine. But do not set out on the Jatbula Trail or any remote walk with difficult water crossings without the requisite gear and local advice.
Be Sensible
Done right, a wet season in Nitmiluk National Park has its rewards in the form of quiet tracks, active waterfalls and a feeling for the Top End. Ignore a closure or the risks around water and it will be a rough time of it.
See the view from a safe vantage point, put in a cruise or walk Katherine Gorge but pick a route that is suitable and check the conditions more than once. The best laid plan for the wet season is one that has you in Katherine in comfort before the mozzies convene for the evening.
